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Broadsheets advertising Tailoring (c.1845-c.1860)
Sun Fire Office registers, 104 policies 1766-1865, kindly supplied by George RigaI
(2000)
Taylors' Cutting Manuals and the Growing Provision of Popular Clothing 1770-1870', Textile History XXXI
(1995)
Broadsheets advertising tailoring and other trades in London, Birmingham etc. (ms., National Art Library C. 1845-c
Advertisements in The Economist
Trade Cards" no. 244, for~,foses The Winter Season (c. 1850) in
Isaac Moses was brother-in-law of the Hyam brothers
Children's Employment Com'mission, 1863, XVII pp
Sun Fire Office registers, policy numbers 524/1105648 (18300, 563/1293018 (1839), 704/1880907 (1859), 716/1944737 (1861)
D. Barthel, C. Shammas (1992)
The Pre-Industrial Consumer in England and America.Contemporary Sociology, 21
The London Tradesman (1747
For Hyams' payroll at earlier dates, see p. Sharpe
(1996)
Nineteenth Century Metropolitan Economy
Habliment Hall (c. 1850) ill). Will of Henry
Window Bills' box
Victor Batzel
From Artisans to Paupers : Economic Changeand Poverty in London , ���� – ����
(1992)
Enterprise in Britain from the Industrial Revolution to \Forld 'Var I (Cambridge
P. Sharpe (1995)
'Cheapness and economy' : manufacturing and retailing ready-made clothing in London and Essex 1830-50Textile History, 26
(2001)
The English Clothing Trade before the Factor} (1997), Ch
(1960)
Evidence of export trade can also be seen in the opening of colonial branches by Moses, Nicolls and some of their competitors
(1995)
However in The Gentlemen's Illustrated Album of Fashion for 1850 ill, Men's Clothing, box II), Hyams maintained they paid
The Dressing Room Companion (1848) p
(2000)
Fashion and its Social Agendas
C. Martin (1961)
Fit for Men (A study of New York's Clothing Trade), par EGAL FELDMAN. Un vol., 6 po. x 9¼, relié, 138 pages — PUBLIC AFFAIRS PRESS, 419, avenue New- Jersey, S.-E., Washington 3, D.C, 1960 ($3.25), 37
(2000)
Men's Clothing', box III. K. Honeyman, Well Suited: A History of the Leeds Clothing Industry
(1999)
For an exploration of these wider issues see R.A. Church, 'New Perspectives on the History of Products, Firms, Marketing and Consumers', Economic History Review
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The Minion of the Million (n.d., c. 1850), British Library (hereafter BL)
(1992)
Merchant Enterprise in Britain from the Industrial Revolution to \Forld 'Var I (Cambridge
(1997)
On the importance of this firm see S. D. Chapman, 'I. & R.~10rley, Colossus of the Hosiery Trade and Industry 1799-1865'
(1993)
The Growth of an Imporlant Branch of British Industry. The Ready-made Clothing System
(1976)
Wealth of Nations (1776)
(1998)
Pessimism Perpetuated: real wages and the standard of living in the industrial revolution',jEcon.Hist
The Pride of London (1848). Punch 15June 1844 p
(1998)
Guildhall Library Sun Fire Office registers 503/102068 (1825) for Morrison
Women's Clothing', box I. Aubrey Newman
(1997)
Children's Employment Commission, ParI
(2000)
Cutting Manuals and the Growing Provision of Popular Clothing 1770-1870'
(2000)
Fashion and its Social Agendas (Chicago
(1998)
Pessimism Perpetuated: real wages and the standard of living in the industrial revolution',jEcon
AbstractThe development of the ready-made clothing industry has been assumed to be a consequence of the invention of the sewing machine in the 1850s, and the spread of multiple retailing to follow from that. This article focuses on the innovating entrepreneurs in this branch of the textile industry, Elias Moses & Son of Aldgate, London, to show how mass-marketing of men's wear grew vigorously during the previous decade. The firm's enterprise was presaged by some external developments in the early decades of the nineteenth century, notably the standardisation of tailors' cutting systems, the decline in cloth prices with the rise of cut-price drapers, growing demand for basic clothing for the forces, emigrants and institutional uniforms, badly-paid immigrant workers and rising real incomes of the population at large.These favourable circumstances allowed the innovators to prosper on low labour costs, high turnover linked to long runs and modest margins, and all the razzmatazz of high-pressure selling, above all saturation of the market with advertising material and spectacular buildings and displays. It appears that quality was maintained within the segmented production lines and that Moses and several of their rivals sold wholesale as well as retail. Moses were quickly copied not only in London but also in a number of provincial cities.Elias Moses was sure that his enterprise amounted to a revolution in the clothing industry and in conclusion his claim is examined as an historical proposition. Jewish entrepreneurs were more willing to break the mould of long-established restrictive practices in the London industry. The economies introduced by the sewing machine were much less significant than has been assumed because sewing was only a small part of production costs. The larger cost was marketing, which Moses reduced before proceeding to the new technology.
The London Journal: A Review of Metropolitan Society Past and Present – Taylor & Francis
Published: May 1, 2004
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